How I Almost Died In Guatemala by Ivan Chan
I set off at 1:30am from Mr. Mullet’s hostel in San Pedro, one of the towns on the edge of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala to hike up Rostro Maya (Indian Nose), a mountain shaped like the side profile of a face, with the plan to scramble up and stand on top of Pico de Loro (Parrot’s Beak) and take some self-portraits with the starry night sky and the ensuing sunrise.
Given the trail reports of bandits with machetes along the path waiting to charge hikers money, I also figured the middle of the night would allow me to avoid all but the most dedicated bandits. After 50 minutes of walking through San Pedro and San Juan, getting aggressively barked at by at least a dozen dogs along the way and probably waking up half the neighborhood, I arrived at the trailhead.
Another 1.5 hours of hiking up the mountain brought me to a spot on the trail just above Pico de Loro, which I figured would be the ideal spot to scout out the best vantage point to set up my tripod at. Venturing slightly off trail, I bushwhacked a couple steps before I decided that it was too steep and sketchy to continue, especially in the dark. Turning back, I stepped down with my left leg on what I thought was ground, but turned out to be loose branches. My foot went completely through and I fell backwards, tumbling 8-9 feet down a 60 degree slope before my right knee caught on a small root and stopped my fall. Lying upside down, my headlamp had been knocked off my head, but turning my head back, I could tell I was lying right on the edge of a cliff (which, when I could see it properly later during the daytime was definitely more than a hundred foot drop).
Lying on loose grass with barely any rocks or branches to support my weight or to hold onto, I recognized I was in a very delicate situation. Any sudden shift in weight could cause me to slip right off the edge of the cliff. I needed to move slowly and cautiously. I slowed down my breathing and my heart rate as I knew panicking would only make things worse. Reaching around with my arms in search of any solid rock to grab onto to haul myself up, I found nothing. just loose grass everywhere with no purchase. shit.
I stretched my arms to their absolute limits and finally found a rock waaaay off to the left. Phew. I hauled myself up on the rock and got back on the trail. Recognizing I could have almost fell to my death there, I felt grateful to have survived.
After taking a couple minutes to collect myself, I hiked down to Pico de Loro. Climbing it in the dark was absolutely out of the question. I’d already tempted fate once, and now that I’d lost my headlamp, I wasn’t about to scramble up this sketchy rock with just one hand and my iPhone flashlight in the other. So, I waited until it was bright enough to see the rock without a light and then climbed to the top. Flying my drone from there, these are the images that I captured. It was an absolutely incredible sunrise.
By the time I got back to the hostel it was about 8 and the town of San Pedro was just waking up. I took a well deserved shower and then hopped on my laptop and started my work day, the events of the past several hours feeling absolutely surreal.
Lesson learned. I’m definitely never again venturing off trail in the dark on a trail I’ve never been on.
- Ivan Chan